Danube Delta - the land on waters: Tulcea - Crisan - Sulina itinerary
Danube Delta from the main canal to the narrow waters.
When to visit
Spring and early summer is the best time (May - June), but summer and autumn is also ok. In the summer there are a lot of mosquitoes and the heat is unbearable as you don't have very much shade. In winter is it almost impossible as the Danube Delta can be isolated for days if the river freezes and the wind is unbearable.
Danube Delta is a place of tranqulity and interior peace. Danube Delta is a maze and you would want to get lost on the small canals. It is a reset from everything you know - here you move if you have a boat and the eyes need some time to adjust. It is like nothing you have seen before. As the Navrom ship takes you on Sulina Canal (or any other navigable canal for that matter), you see everything like on TV, it is amazing , but far from reach. The more you go in the hearth of the delta and the more you go on the small canals, the closer you will be with this place, the better you will understand it. In the Danube Delta you don't go to a place, all the time spend in the boat is a destination in itself. Every few minutes the scenery will change. You would think: what can be so different, it is just water. But let me tell you my friend that is not really so. From a main Sulina Canal from where you feel every wave like a lump in the throat, as you enter the wilderness, you start on wide canals with big trees, some land at the shore, then you enter the vastness of a lake where you won't see the end of the water, just some reed floating bushes and then you will go on a small canal where the reed will flank your water on both side. If you stop for a second, your eyes will start to see details of life in every corner: from the grass that grows under the water to small insects and birds, everything is living is a perfect harmony. You are the observer, the intruder. All the Danube is plain and sometimes under the sea level, but most of the time you can only see a few meters in all directions. This trip goes to the heart of the Danube Delta and also to the town of Sulina which is a story of a once great place.
There is a 13:30 boat from Tulcea so you need to leave around 8 a.m. because the roads are not so good
At this point the Danube Tulcea branch splits into Sulina Canal to the left and Sfantu Gheorghe Canal to the right. Sulina is one of the main 3 canals, but it was chosen to be the one to be digged in order to make it navigable for big ships. In this regard Sulina is one of the greatest engineering projects of its time in a land that is completely different, isolated and volatile like the new lands of Danube Delta. It is a paradox as Sulina Canal goes through the heart of Danube Delta, but you can not see the real thing unless you get of the main canal and start exploring the surroundings. Sulina Canal and Sfantu Gheorghe Branch both transport each about 20 percent of the Danube water, the rest is transported on Chilia Branch.
I recommend to stay on the deck in the shadow and let yourself be carried in the atmosphere and the relaxation of waters. Here everything has a different tempo.
Sulina was a fascination for me from the first moments I arrived here. You can see on the buildings the glorious history that this city had and the degradation and the state the it is now. Sulina was a cosmopolitan and multicultural city due to the Danube European Commission that had it's headquarters here. A place where pirates and princes lives in the 19th and the 20th century. Sulina was the headquarters of Europe in one project that would allow big ships to enter from the Black Sea to go up the river. As you arrive you take a stroll on the main street of Sulina: the I-st (firs) street. Here you can see the seafront with the willow trees and the benches inviting people to admire the river and the sunset. As you visit the next streets: II-nd (Second Street, III-rd (third) Street until the VI-th (sixth) Street , the pavement is going missing, leaving space to the sand streets and the to poor neighborhoods of the only city in the Danube Delta.
Perla House in Sulina
Taxi to the beach at Black Sea
You will pay around 10 lei to the sea
Beach in Sulina
I love this place, the water is shallow and it is not crowded.
In day 3 we went to see where the Danube does into the Black Sea and all the natural and human impact in designing this navigable canal
Boat rental from Perla Sulinei Guesthouse
Boat and driver from Perla Sulinei to go to the mouth where Danube flows into the Black Sea. We went late in the evening and saw the sunset on the boat
Lighthouse 2 Sulina
This is the old light house build on the left bank on the Sulina Canal. It was decommissioned when the work on the canal started. It has a very specific look, hence the distribution in a famous Romanian movie Toate Panzele Sus